Should I insulate the walls of my old home?

Your historic house is drafty and cold. Your electric bill in the summer is rising. Your natural first thought and a questions we are often asked, “Should I insulate the walls of my old home?”

The wrong method can have a lasting negative impact on your home… and health.

Based on what we’ve seen assessing a number of homes and the National Park Service’s stance on it through their Preservation Briefs, we do NOT recommend insulating the walls of a historic home.

If the vapor barrier is not installed carefully and the correct products used, it can cause mold, mildew, rot, loss of paint adhesion and start the home down a path of rapid decline.

The pictures in the post are of an 1890s home in a Level 4 Wood Deterioration Zone that had holes drilled around the entire exterior, then was filled with insulation, and the holes plugged. This has caused water vapor to be trapped in the wall cavity and due to the region’s ideal conditions for rot, mildew and mold growth, the home is now covered in mildew as well as has a number of additional issues that will be difficult and costly to remedy.

If it is going to be insulated, it should be completed in conjunction with a full interior remodel or a full siding removal and exterior restoration. As to what products should be installed, that’s a post unto itself.

In addition to this, if you only insulate one room of the home, it can actually increase the pressure in the home, forcing air into other areas, causing additional issues. This means that it can be better for your home if you do not insulate the kitchen only during a remodel.

What should you do?

1. Insulate in between your floor joists following the guidelines for your region and home.

2. Insulate your attic.

3. Ensure your roof has proper ventilation.

4. Seal penetration in the floors, walls, cabinet, ceiling.

5. Add EnergyStar rated aluminum storm windows - Some may say weatherstrip your windows, but due to the cost of weatherstripping, labor to install and risk of damage, storm windows have a higher ROI with less risk.

6. Add a wood or aluminum storm door

7. Caulk/seal the joint between the baseboard and the floor.

Air infiltration is the biggest enemy of energy efficiency, and these 7 items create a more cost effective solution to decreasing the drafts in a historic home WITHOUT causing long term issues.

🔨🏠🪟🚪🧱🔨🏠🪟🚪🧱

Needing help with your historic home, building, or structure?

📞 405.549.9880

📧 info@oldhomerescue.com

Field Guide: Spring Bronze Weatherstripping

Weatherstripping - Spring Bronze Installation

Tools & Materials:

• 1 ⅛” spring bronze

• 17 x ¾” coppered nails

• Hammer

• Tin snips

• Measuring tape

• Drill

• 1/16” twist bit

• Needle nose pliers

• 5-in-1
  

Weatherstripping note: Spring bronze weatherstripping is installed before the sash installation. Spring bronze can be added to the upper rail, upper meeting rail, lower rail, and sash channels. Nailing flange should be installed toward the top on the upper meeting rail and toward the interior on all other pieces. 1 ⅛” spring bronze is most typically used for 1 ⅜” sash. 

Procedure:

1. Prep the box by opening it, making a cut to the side, feeding the spring bronze out of the side, then taping the top closed. 

2. Mark meeting rails on the jamb by measuring the sash or setting it into the opening and marking

3. Note: All nails should be installed toward the interior. 

4. Measure and cut the spring bronze with tin snips to be ½” larger than the upper sash. 

5. Cut a small curve on the meeting rail side to reduce snagging

6. Mark and cut for the upper sash channel pulley using either method below

   1. Cutting and install a single strip from the pulley to the header

   2. Cutting around the pulley using tin snip and installing a continuous piece

7. Pre-drill the first hole at the top of the upper sash channel with a 1/16” twist bit about ¼” deep and install the first nail. 

8. Pull the spring bronze taut and straight. Repeat step 6 for the center then end. 

9. Repeat pre-drilling and nailing every 1 ½-2” 

   1. Spring side may need one nail above the pulley to keep from catching. 

10. Repeat process for the lower sash channel with cutting the end of the spring bronze to match the angle of the sill. 

11. Repeat steps for the upper, lower and upper meeting rail with the additional notes

    1. For the lower rail cut the spring bronze flush with the ends

    2. For the upper rail cut the spring bronze ⅛” inside of the pulley channel

    3. For the upper meeting rail the spring should be downward. 

12. Check for daylight after sash installation. Close the daylight by running a 5-in-1 down the crease then bending the spring bronze out with the 5-in-1 until daylight is gone. 

Spring bronze installation on a new jamb. Pre-drilling with 1/16” drill bit shown

Field Guide: Hardware for Double Hung Sash Windows

Installation of New Sash Hardware, Double Hung  

Your vintage windows need to lock! But what is the right way to get them to lock? How do close the gap and how do solve the most common problems? In this field guide and the video below we walk you through how to install a traditional sash lock and lift on a vintage wood window - a simple way to improve the beauty of an old home.

Tools & Materials:

• Lock & Keep

• Lift

• Sash lock shims

• Measuring Tape

• Pencil

• Drill

• 3/32” twist bit

• 1/8“ twist bits

• Flathead screwdriver - ratching screwdrivers will save your forearms!

• Painter’s tape

Hardware Notes:

1. Lock & keep are most commonly centered or matched with existing.

2. Lift should be symmetrical and centered within a pane, when possible.

3. Lift placement should be measured from the profile edge, not the stool.

4. Windows 34”+ wide should have two locks and lifts installed to assist in smooth operation and pulling the meeting rails together for decreased air infiltration. 

Procedure:

1. Old hardware holes should be filled with epoxy if they’re intended to be reused.

2. Mark twist bits for the screw length with painter’s tape

3. Find the center for the lock by measuring from the start of the profile on each side, dividing the measurement in half, and marking with a pencil on the lower check rail. 

4. Align the keep centered on the mark with the based flush with the upper meeting rail. Pre-drill with a ⅛” twist bit

5. Install keep with provided screws using a flathead screwdriver

6. Align the lock centered with the keep and the exterior, flat surface flush with the edge of the lower meeting rail. Test to see if the lock will pull the meeting tight. Pre-drill with ⅛” twist bit. 

7. Install lock with provided screws and flathead screwdriver

8. Find center for the lift by measuring on center in the glass opening and mark

   • Pro Tip: Raise the lower sash and mark center on the lower rail based on the lock placement.

9. Mark the height to be ½” below the lower rail profile edge. 

   • Pro Tip: A scrap piece of parting bead is perfect for gauging 1/2'‘ below the profile.

10. Align the lift on the marks, you may be able to clamp with a pistol grip clamp

11. Pre-drill lift with 3/32” twist bit. You’ll notice that’s different than the lock pilot holes, as the screws are different sizes.

12. Install lift with provided screws and flathead screwdriver

Acceptable: Pilot holes are drilled to the appropriate size. When fastened, the lock pulls the check rails together. Screws are not marred and are installed by hand. 

Unacceptable: Screws are marred, installed with drill, or head is sheared. The lock does not pull check rails together or secure the window. 

Field Guide: Double Hung Window Installation

This in-depth guide (to be completed later) will take you from setup and removal of your historic, double hung wood windows to their re-installation.

While this post focuses on the mechanical work of the window, you can check out our other field guides to finish your window;

• Exterior Restoration

• Interior Painting

• Double Hung Hardware

Below is a quick reference checklist. Click the image for up-to-date changes.

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Field Guide: Interior Window Painting

Below is the process that we have specifically developed with our local Sherwin Williams for our painters to restore the interior of old wood windows WITHOUT removing the sash from the window. Yes, it would be best practice to remove them; however, to do so is sometimes cost prohibitive. This is a method that will perform the needed maintenance on the windows, be eligible for Sherwin William’s lifetime warranty, and allows our Neighbors (we don’t have customers) to do much needed work on more windows.

If you do want to remove it to bare wood and deglaze, we highly recommend using a Speedheater over a heat gun and check out this video.

(For our process in Spanish click here)

The following process is for our on-site, interior window restorations and part of our Lifetime Exterior Renovation. This is the difference between putting color on a window and prepping & painting a window that we can all stand behind the quality of work. 

1. Any products outside of those specified and provided must be approved by Old Home Rescue prior to use. 

2. Follow Manufacturer’s Specifications on all products

3. Clean the Surface

   1. Remove all surface contamination by using the following; 

      1. Walls should be wet down with garden hose & nozzle

      2. Mix 1 gallon water, 1 cup bleach, & 1 cup TSP-PF (Adjust for spray bottle if desired)

      3. Working in sections, clean from bottom to top to avoid streaks

      4. Rinse window and trim with water in spray bottle before solution dries

      5. Allow to dry until wood as 15% or less moisture level

4. Prep the Surface

   1. Cover the work area with plastic or drop clothes to collect paint debris

   2. Scrape flat surfaces with a pull scraper to a sound layer removing existing loose, peeled or checked paint.

   3. Scrape profiles with a surfaces with a profile scraper to a sound layer removing existing loose, peeled or checked paint.

   4. Feather sand by hand any rough edges from peeling paint with a sanding pad to improve the final appearance and adhesion.

   5. Removal of old paint runs

   6. Set nail heads on wood where exposed beyond surface level

   7. Remove all unused fasteners & hardware

   8. Repair dry rot around around sash hardware with Abatron LiquidWood BEFORE priming.

   9. Repair rot with up to a golf ball sized quantity of Abatron WoodEpox BEFORE priming. Damage or rot exceeding epoxy threshold should be communicated to Old Home Rescue

   10. Repair minor cracks painter’s putty or wood filler AFTER spot priming.

   11. Caulking should be completed AFTER priming

5. Glazing Repair

   1. If broken glass is present, continue with steps 5.2-5.4.

   2. Replace any broken glass with 1/8” double strength flat glass or reproduction wavy glass, as specified. Pin glass in place using glazing points with at least 2 glazing points on each side.

   3. Glass beds should be primed with oil based primer BEFORE glazing. 

   4. Putty glaze glass in with AquaGlaze

6. Prime the Surface

   1. Brush the surface with 1-2 coats of Sherwin Williams Primer Rx Peel Bonding Primer

   2. Peel bonding primer helps even out less-than-perfect surfaces before painting, giving a smoother completed finish

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 4 hrs after application

7. Caulk

   1. Gaps and fixed joints can be filled with Sherwin Williams PowerHouse or MaxFlex caulking after priming the surface

   2. Allow proper drying time before application of the finish

8. Paint the Surface

   1. Brush the surfaces with 2 coats of Sherwin Williams Emerald, Waterbased Alkyd Urethane (different temperature requirements) or equivalent paints in a satin or semi gloss finish finish for ultimate protection. 

   2. OHR preferred sash brush: 2” angled ultra stiff sash brush

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 48 hrs after application

9. Clean the surface

   1. Remove any paint from glass with a lubricated razor blade

   2. Clean glass with glass cleaner and paper towels

   3. Glass should be clean when viewed from 6 feet away

   4. Property should be clean of all construction debris and paint chips

   5. Trash can be disposed of at Old Home Rescue or construction dumpster on-site.

10.  Notes on Painting Wood Windows

    1. The above specifications are for painting wood windows for stabilization, protection and maintenance on a cyclical basis. Window painting’s cosmetic results should be viewed from 5 feet away as there may still be inconsistencies in the paint surface. 

    2. If the Neighbor is interested in additional surface preparation or replacements parts to their window, direct them to the Old Home Rescue Project Manager, who will discuss off-site restoration or reproduction windows.

Field Guide: Exterior Window Painting

Below is the process that we have specifically developed with our local Sherwin Williams for our painters to restore old wood windows WITHOUT removing the sash from the window. Yes, it would be best practice to remove them; however, to do so is sometimes cost prohibitive. This is a method that will perform the needed maintenance on the windows, be eligible for Sherwin William’s lifetime warranty, and allows our Neighbors (we don’t have customers) to do much needed work on more windows.

If you do want to remove it to bare wood and deglaze, we highly recommend using a Speedheater over a heat gun and check out this video.

(For our process in Spanish click here)

The following process is for our on-site, exterior window restorations and part of our Lifetime Exterior Renovation. This is the difference between putting color on a window and prepping & painting a window that we can all stand behind the quality of work. 

1. Any products outside of those specified and provided must be approved by Old Home Rescue prior to use. 

2. Follow Manufacturer’s Specifications on all products

3. Clean the Surface

   1. Pressure washers are NOT used to prep for paint application

   2. Remove all surface contamination by using the following; 

      1. Walls should be wet down with garden hose & nozzle

      2. Mix 1 gallon water, 1 cup bleach, & 1 cup TSP-PF

      3. Working in sections, clean from bottom to top to avoid streaks

      4. Rinse walls with garden hose and nozzle before solution dries

      5. Allow to dry until wood as 15% or less moisture level

4. Prep the Surface

   1. Cover the work area with plastic or drop clothes to collect paint debris

   2. Existing loose, peeled or checked paint must be scraped with a pull scraper to a sound layer. 

   3. Feather sand any rough edges from peeling paint with a sanding pad to improve the final appearance and adhesion.

   4. Removal of old paint runs

   5. Set nail heads on wood where exposed beyond surface level

   6. Remove all unused fasteners & hardware

   7. Repair rot with up to a golf ball sized quantity of Abatron WoodEpox BEFORE priming or a primed replacement board. Damage or rot exceeding epoxy threshold should be communicated to Old Home Rescue

   8. Repair minor cracks with Aqua Glaze or exterior painter’s putty AFTER spot priming.

   9. Caulking should be completed AFTER priming

5. Glazing Repair

   1. Replace any broken glass with 1/8” double strength flat glass or reproduction wavy glass, as specified. Pin glass in place using glazing points with at least 2 glazing points on each side.

   2. Remove failed glazing that cannot be maintain from the glass bed. Protect historic glass, ensuring not to break any additional glass.

   3. Glass beds should be primed with oil based primer BEFORE glazing. 

   4. Putty glaze glass with Aqua Glaze

   5. Fill cracks in glazing with Aqua Glaze

6. Spot Prime

   1. Spot prime bare wood with oil based primer 

   2. Sand as needed between coats.

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 4 hrs after application

7. Prime the Surface

   1. Brush the entire surface with 1-2 coats of Sherwin Williams Primer Rx Peel Bonding Primer

   2. Peel bonding primer helps even out less-than-perfect surfaces before painting, giving a smoother completed finish

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 4 hrs after application

8. Caulk

   1. Gaps and fixed joints can be filled with Sherwin Williams PowerHouse or MaxFlex caulking after priming the surface

   2. Allow proper drying time before application of the finish

9. Paint the Surface

   1. Brush the surfaces with 2 coats of Sherwin Williams Emerald, Waterbased Alkyd Urethane (different temperature requirements) or equivalent paints in a satin or semi gloss finish finish for ultimate protection. 

   2. OHR preferred sash brush: 2” angled ultra stiff sash brush

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 48 hrs after application

10. Clean the surface

    1. Remove any paint from glass with a lubricated razor blade

    2. Clean glass with glass cleaner and paper towels

    3. Glass should be clean when viewed from 6 feet away

    4. Property should be clean of all construction debris and paint chips

    5. Trash can be disposed of at Old Home Rescue or construction dumpster on-site.

11.  Notes on Painting Wood Windows

    1. The above specifications are for painting wood windows for stabilization, protection and maintenance on a cyclical basis. Window painting’s cosmetic results should be viewed from 5 feet away as there may still be inconsistencies in the paint surface. 

    2. If the Neighbor is interested in additional surface preparation or replacements parts to their window, direct them to the Old Home Rescue Project Manager, who will discuss off-site restoration or reproduction windows.

Click the image below for an up-to-date checklist!

Field Guide: Remove Vinyl or Aluminum Siding

The truth about replacement siding… well, is that it’s bad.

Underneath the shell that’s been placed on a house, is rushed work that didn’t take the long term interest of the home into account. Character defining details have been covered or literally just knocked off with a hammer so that cladding could be installed. Not only this, the way in which replacement siding is installed on an old home actually pushes water behind the siding near the roofline trim, diverts water into areas that can produce rot around windows and doors, and covers up problems on a house.

At Old Home Rescue, we don’t cover up problems. We UNCOVER them because, to us, they’re not problems. They’re just part of the work on the path to Rescuing your home.

Like many of our blog posts, here’s an insight into how our teams remove vinyl or aluminum cladding and our expectations for them.

After demo, it’s time for siding and trim repairs and painting the siding. Check out the videos below for what your home could look like underneath!

Procedure:

1. Place drop cloths or plastic underneath the working area. As the siding comes off so will the paint chips that have collected over the decades.

2. Remove the cladding using the gentlest means necessary. This can mean taking the time to work from top to bottom and remove screws or nails. Most often, we are restoring the original siding so it is imperative not to cause additional damage.

3. Siding should be hauled off to recycling, when available, or disposed of in the on-site dumpster or at Old Home Rescue’s office.

4. Pull all nails, screws and fasteners and dispose them.

5. Clean the entire project and leave it better than was found by picking up all paint chips, disposing of all debris, and using a magnet pick up all fasteners from the ground.

6. Communicate rot and areas of concern to Old Home Rescue’s Project Manager

7. Cover rot, areas of concern, or exposed sheathing with house wrap and button tab nails

Expectations

• Removal of siding in a way that does not cause further damage

• Removal of nails or screws left in original siding or sheathing

• Clean-up of all debris

• House wrap of any concern areas or exposed areas

• Run work area with magnet to pick up nails