Should I insulate the walls of my old home?

Your historic house is drafty and cold. Your electric bill in the summer is rising. Your natural first thought and a questions we are often asked, “Should I insulate the walls of my old home?”

The wrong method can have a lasting negative impact on your home… and health.

Based on what we’ve seen assessing a number of homes and the National Park Service’s stance on it through their Preservation Briefs, we do NOT recommend insulating the walls of a historic home.

If the vapor barrier is not installed carefully and the correct products used, it can cause mold, mildew, rot, loss of paint adhesion and start the home down a path of rapid decline.

The pictures in the post are of an 1890s home in a Level 4 Wood Deterioration Zone that had holes drilled around the entire exterior, then was filled with insulation, and the holes plugged. This has caused water vapor to be trapped in the wall cavity and due to the region’s ideal conditions for rot, mildew and mold growth, the home is now covered in mildew as well as has a number of additional issues that will be difficult and costly to remedy.

If it is going to be insulated, it should be completed in conjunction with a full interior remodel or a full siding removal and exterior restoration. As to what products should be installed, that’s a post unto itself.

In addition to this, if you only insulate one room of the home, it can actually increase the pressure in the home, forcing air into other areas, causing additional issues. This means that it can be better for your home if you do not insulate the kitchen only during a remodel.

What should you do?

1. Insulate in between your floor joists following the guidelines for your region and home.

2. Insulate your attic.

3. Ensure your roof has proper ventilation.

4. Seal penetration in the floors, walls, cabinet, ceiling.

5. Add EnergyStar rated aluminum storm windows - Some may say weatherstrip your windows, but due to the cost of weatherstripping, labor to install and risk of damage, storm windows have a higher ROI with less risk.

6. Add a wood or aluminum storm door

7. Caulk/seal the joint between the baseboard and the floor.

Air infiltration is the biggest enemy of energy efficiency, and these 7 items create a more cost effective solution to decreasing the drafts in a historic home WITHOUT causing long term issues.

🔨🏠🪟🚪🧱🔨🏠🪟🚪🧱

Needing help with your historic home, building, or structure?

📞 405.549.9880

📧 info@oldhomerescue.com

Field Guide: Hardware for Double Hung Sash Windows

Installation of New Sash Hardware, Double Hung  

Your vintage windows need to lock! But what is the right way to get them to lock? How do close the gap and how do solve the most common problems? In this field guide and the video below we walk you through how to install a traditional sash lock and lift on a vintage wood window - a simple way to improve the beauty of an old home.

Tools & Materials:

• Lock & Keep

• Lift

• Sash lock shims

• Measuring Tape

• Pencil

• Drill

• 3/32” twist bit

• 1/8“ twist bits

• Flathead screwdriver - ratching screwdrivers will save your forearms!

• Painter’s tape

Hardware Notes:

1. Lock & keep are most commonly centered or matched with existing.

2. Lift should be symmetrical and centered within a pane, when possible.

3. Lift placement should be measured from the profile edge, not the stool.

4. Windows 34”+ wide should have two locks and lifts installed to assist in smooth operation and pulling the meeting rails together for decreased air infiltration. 

Procedure:

1. Old hardware holes should be filled with epoxy if they’re intended to be reused.

2. Mark twist bits for the screw length with painter’s tape

3. Find the center for the lock by measuring from the start of the profile on each side, dividing the measurement in half, and marking with a pencil on the lower check rail. 

4. Align the keep centered on the mark with the based flush with the upper meeting rail. Pre-drill with a ⅛” twist bit

5. Install keep with provided screws using a flathead screwdriver

6. Align the lock centered with the keep and the exterior, flat surface flush with the edge of the lower meeting rail. Test to see if the lock will pull the meeting tight. Pre-drill with ⅛” twist bit. 

7. Install lock with provided screws and flathead screwdriver

8. Find center for the lift by measuring on center in the glass opening and mark

   • Pro Tip: Raise the lower sash and mark center on the lower rail based on the lock placement.

9. Mark the height to be ½” below the lower rail profile edge. 

   • Pro Tip: A scrap piece of parting bead is perfect for gauging 1/2'‘ below the profile.

10. Align the lift on the marks, you may be able to clamp with a pistol grip clamp

11. Pre-drill lift with 3/32” twist bit. You’ll notice that’s different than the lock pilot holes, as the screws are different sizes.

12. Install lift with provided screws and flathead screwdriver

Acceptable: Pilot holes are drilled to the appropriate size. When fastened, the lock pulls the check rails together. Screws are not marred and are installed by hand. 

Unacceptable: Screws are marred, installed with drill, or head is sheared. The lock does not pull check rails together or secure the window. 

Field Guide: Double Hung Window Installation

This in-depth guide (to be completed later) will take you from setup and removal of your historic, double hung wood windows to their re-installation.

While this post focuses on the mechanical work of the window, you can check out our other field guides to finish your window;

• Exterior Restoration

• Interior Painting

• Double Hung Hardware

Below is a quick reference checklist. Click the image for up-to-date changes.

Wood Window Lock

from $14.99

Finish/Pack Size:

Select Finish/Pack Size Antique BrassLacquered BrassBrushed NickelOil Rubbed BronzeUnlacquered / Polished Brass10 Pack Antique Brass10 Pack Lacquered Brass10 Pack Brushed Nickel10 Pack Oil Rubbed Bronze10 Pack Unlacquered / Polished Brass

Antique Brass Lacquered Brass Brushed Nickel Oil Rubbed Bronze Unlacquered / Polished Brass 10 Pack Antique Brass 10 Pack Lacquered Brass 10 Pack Brushed Nickel 10 Pack Oil Rubbed Bronze 10 Pack Unlacquered / Polished Brass

Quantity:

Add To Cart

Field Guide: Exterior Window Painting

Below is the process that we have specifically developed with our local Sherwin Williams for our painters to restore old wood windows WITHOUT removing the sash from the window. Yes, it would be best practice to remove them; however, to do so is sometimes cost prohibitive. This is a method that will perform the needed maintenance on the windows, be eligible for Sherwin William’s lifetime warranty, and allows our Neighbors (we don’t have customers) to do much needed work on more windows.

If you do want to remove it to bare wood and deglaze, we highly recommend using a Speedheater over a heat gun and check out this video.

(For our process in Spanish click here)

The following process is for our on-site, exterior window restorations and part of our Lifetime Exterior Renovation. This is the difference between putting color on a window and prepping & painting a window that we can all stand behind the quality of work. 

1. Any products outside of those specified and provided must be approved by Old Home Rescue prior to use. 

2. Follow Manufacturer’s Specifications on all products

3. Clean the Surface

   1. Pressure washers are NOT used to prep for paint application

   2. Remove all surface contamination by using the following; 

      1. Walls should be wet down with garden hose & nozzle

      2. Mix 1 gallon water, 1 cup bleach, & 1 cup TSP-PF

      3. Working in sections, clean from bottom to top to avoid streaks

      4. Rinse walls with garden hose and nozzle before solution dries

      5. Allow to dry until wood as 15% or less moisture level

4. Prep the Surface

   1. Cover the work area with plastic or drop clothes to collect paint debris

   2. Existing loose, peeled or checked paint must be scraped with a pull scraper to a sound layer. 

   3. Feather sand any rough edges from peeling paint with a sanding pad to improve the final appearance and adhesion.

   4. Removal of old paint runs

   5. Set nail heads on wood where exposed beyond surface level

   6. Remove all unused fasteners & hardware

   7. Repair rot with up to a golf ball sized quantity of Abatron WoodEpox BEFORE priming or a primed replacement board. Damage or rot exceeding epoxy threshold should be communicated to Old Home Rescue

   8. Repair minor cracks with Aqua Glaze or exterior painter’s putty AFTER spot priming.

   9. Caulking should be completed AFTER priming

5. Glazing Repair

   1. Replace any broken glass with 1/8” double strength flat glass or reproduction wavy glass, as specified. Pin glass in place using glazing points with at least 2 glazing points on each side.

   2. Remove failed glazing that cannot be maintain from the glass bed. Protect historic glass, ensuring not to break any additional glass.

   3. Glass beds should be primed with oil based primer BEFORE glazing. 

   4. Putty glaze glass with Aqua Glaze

   5. Fill cracks in glazing with Aqua Glaze

6. Spot Prime

   1. Spot prime bare wood with oil based primer 

   2. Sand as needed between coats.

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 4 hrs after application

7. Prime the Surface

   1. Brush the entire surface with 1-2 coats of Sherwin Williams Primer Rx Peel Bonding Primer

   2. Peel bonding primer helps even out less-than-perfect surfaces before painting, giving a smoother completed finish

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 4 hrs after application

8. Caulk

   1. Gaps and fixed joints can be filled with Sherwin Williams PowerHouse or MaxFlex caulking after priming the surface

   2. Allow proper drying time before application of the finish

9. Paint the Surface

   1. Brush the surfaces with 2 coats of Sherwin Williams Emerald, Waterbased Alkyd Urethane (different temperature requirements) or equivalent paints in a satin or semi gloss finish finish for ultimate protection. 

   2. OHR preferred sash brush: 2” angled ultra stiff sash brush

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 48 hrs after application

10. Clean the surface

    1. Remove any paint from glass with a lubricated razor blade

    2. Clean glass with glass cleaner and paper towels

    3. Glass should be clean when viewed from 6 feet away

    4. Property should be clean of all construction debris and paint chips

    5. Trash can be disposed of at Old Home Rescue or construction dumpster on-site.

11.  Notes on Painting Wood Windows

    1. The above specifications are for painting wood windows for stabilization, protection and maintenance on a cyclical basis. Window painting’s cosmetic results should be viewed from 5 feet away as there may still be inconsistencies in the paint surface. 

    2. If the Neighbor is interested in additional surface preparation or replacements parts to their window, direct them to the Old Home Rescue Project Manager, who will discuss off-site restoration or reproduction windows.

Click the image below for an up-to-date checklist!

Field Guide: Painting Old Wood Windows Overview

Once upon a time, before Old Home Rescue, we were Wood Window Rescue. We’ve spent the years, scraping every last piece of paint, reglazing each panes, and re-roping windows. I’ll be honest, even as a professional, sometimes it’s hard. It’s a common topic at our window restoration workshops as well as Facebook groups like Our Old House. What we’ve learned, and now stress, to our Neighbors is that there is a time and a place for window restoration. Sometimes it’s best for your time, your marriage (seriously), and your windows to just perform paint maintenance.

Below is the process that we have specifically developed for our painters to paint old wood windows WITHOUT removing the paint to bare wood or the window from the opening. Yes, it will have continue to have the character of an old home, but when viewed from the sidewalk, the paint will look amazing and be eligible for Sherwin Williams’s lifetime warranty. If you do want to remove it to bare wood and deglaze, we highly recommend using a Speedheater over a heat gun and check out this video.

(For our process in Spanish click here)

The following process is intended to be the final step in a Lifetime Exterior Renovation. This is the difference between putting color on a house and prepping & painting a home where we can all stand behind the quality of work. 

1. Any products outside of those specified and provided must be approved by Old Home Rescue prior to use. 

2. Follow Manufacturer’s Specifications on all products

3. Clean the Surface

   1. Pressure washers are NOT used to prep for paint application

   2. Remove all surface contamination by using the following; 

      1. Walls should be wet down with garden hose & nozzle

      2. Mix 1 gallon water, 1 cup bleach, & 1 cup TSP-PF

      3. Working in sections, clean from bottom to top to avoid streaks

      4. Rinse walls with garden hose and nozzle before solution dries

      5. Allow to dry until wood as 15% or less moisture level

4. Prep the Surface

   1. Cover the work area with plastic or drop clothes to collect paint debris

   2. Existing loose, peeled or checked paint must be scraped with a pull scraper to a sound layer, i.e., must pass the fingernail test for failed paint. 

   3. Feather the rough edges from peeling paint to improve the final appearance and adhesion.

   4. Removal of old paint runs

   5. Set nail heads on wood where exposed beyond surface level

   6. Remove all unused fasteners & hardware

   7. Repair rot with up to a golf ball sized quantity of Abatron WoodEpox BEFORE priming or a primed replacement board. Damage or rot exceeding epoxy threshold should be communicated to Old Home Rescue

   8. Repair minor cracks with Aqua Glaze or exterior painter’s putty AFTER spot priming.

   9. Caulking should be completed AFTER priming

5. Glazing Repair

   1. Protect historic glass by replacing missing glazing with Aqua Glaze and only removing glazing that fails the fingernail test. Glass beds should be primed with oil based primer BEFORE glazing. 

   2. Fill cracks in glazing with Aqua Glaze

6. Spot Prime

   1. Spot prime bare wood with oil based primer 

   2. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 4 hrs after application

7. Prime the Surface

   1. Brush the surface Sherwin Williams Primer Rx Peel Bonding Primer

   2. Peel bonding primer helps even out less-than-perfect surfaces before painting, giving a smoother completed finish

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 4 hrs after application

8. Caulk

   1. Gaps and fixed joints can be filled with Sherwin Williams PowerHouse or MaxFlex caulking after priming the surface

   2. Allow proper drying time before application of the finish

9. Paint the Surface

   1. Brush the surfaces with 2 coats of Sherwin Williams Emerald, Waterbased Alkyd Urethane (different temperature requirements) or equivalent paints in a satin or semi gloss finish finish for ultimate protection. 

   2. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 48 hrs after application

10. Clean the surface

    1. Remove any paint from glass with a lubricated razor blade

    2. Clean glass with glass cleaner and paper towels

    3. Glass should be clean when viewed from 6 feet away

    4. Property should be clean of all construction debris

    5. Trash can be disposed of at Old Home Rescue or construction dumpster on-site.

11.  Notes on Painting Wood Windows

    1. The above specifications are for painting wood windows for stabilization, protection and maintenance on a cyclical basis. Window painting’s cosmetic results should be viewed from the sidewalk as there will be inconsistencies in the paint surface. 

    2. If the Neighbor is interested in additional surface preparation or results, direct them to the Old Home Rescue Project Manager, who will discuss on-site restoration, off-site restoration, or reproduction windows.

Field Guide: Painting Peeling Wood Siding & Trim

Let’s face it, painting old wood is hard, and, honestly, it’s taken us years to develop a process that could bridge the gap between what painter suppliers require for warranties, what painters have never been taught, and paint prep that can be completed without stripping all of the woodwork of your home to bare wood.

Below is the process that we have specifically developed with Sherwin Williams for our painters to paint old homes WITHOUT removing the paint to bare wood. Yes, it will have continue to have the character of an old home, but when viewed from the sidewalk, the paint will look amazing and be eligible for Sherwin Williams’s lifetime warranty. If you want to remove it to bare wood, we highly recommend using a Speedheater over a heat gun.

(For our process in Spanish click here)

The following process is intended to be the final step in a Lifetime Exterior Renovation. This is the difference between putting color on a house and prepping & painting a home where we can all stand behind the quality of work. 

1. Any products outside of those specified and provided must be approved by Old Home Rescue prior to use.

2. Follow Manufacturer’s Specifications on all products not outlined here

3. Clean the Surface

   1. Pressure washers are NOT used to prep for paint application

   2. Remove all surface contamination by using the following; 

      1. Walls should be wet down with garden hose & nozzle

      2. Mix 1 gallon water, 1 cup bleach, & 1 cup trisodium phosphate (TSP)

      3. Working in sections, clean from bottom to top to avoid streaks

      4. Rinse walls with garden hose and nozzle before solution dries

      5. Allow to dry until wood as 15% or less moisture level

4. Prep the Surface

   1. Cover the work area with plastic or drop clothes to collect paint debris

   2. Existing loose, peeled or checked paint must be scraped with a pull scraper and sanded to a sound surface

   3. Feather the rough edges from peeling paint to improve the final appearance. 

   4. Set nail heads on wood where exposed beyond surface level

   5. Repair minor cracks with exterior painter’s putty

   6. Repair rot with up to a golf ball sized quantity of Abatron WoodEpox BEFORE priming or a replacement board primed on all sides and end cuts. Damage or rot exceeding epoxy threshold should be communicated to Old Home Rescue 

   7. Caulking should be completed AFTER priming

5. Spot Prime

   1. Spot prime bare wood with oil based primer 

   2. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 4 hrs after application

6. Prime the Surface

   1. Brush or spray + back brush/roll the surface Sherwin Williams PrimerRx Peel Bonding Primer

   2. Peel bonding primer helps even out less-than-perfect surfaces before painting, giving a smoother completed finish

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 4 hrs after application

7. Caulk

   1. Gaps and fixed joints can be filled with Sherwin Williams PowerHouse or MaxFlex caulking after priming the surface

   2. Allow proper drying time before application of the finish

   3. NEVER caulk the underside of siding 

8. Paint the Surface

   1. Spray, Brush, and/or Roll the surfaces with 2 coats of Sherwin Williams Emerald or equivalent paints in a satin or semi gloss finish finish for ultimate protection.

   2. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 48 hrs after application

9. Clean the property

   1. Property should be clean of all construction debris

   2. Trash can be disposed of at Old Home Rescue or construction dumpster on-site.

10.  Notes on Painting Wood Windows

    1. The above are Sherwin Williams Approved specifications for painting old wood for stabilization, protection and maintenance on a cyclical basis, which qualifies the painting project for a lifetime warranty. 

    2. Window painting’s cosmetic results should be viewed from the sidewalk as there will be inconsistencies in the paint surface. 

    3. If the Neighbor is interested in additional surface preparation or results, direct them to the Old Home Rescue Project Manager, who will discuss additional options for repair or replacement.

Picking the Best Sash Lock

Your vintage windows need to be able to lock...but what lock should you choose? Where can you buy locks? 

In this blog and the videos, we will review 3 different types of locks that have been used by Old Home Rescue.

The Box Store, Budget Lock:  The Everbilt, Steel Window Lock

The Everbilt is the first lock that Ty mentions in the video. This lock can be found in almost all big, hardware box stores such as Home Depot or Lowe’s. They can also be found at your local hardware store, which is great if you’re in a pinch for an affordable lock! However, the hardware store lock is fairly low in quality.

From our experience, we have learned that the steel finish fails quickly from just the slightest wear. When our team used them, they became damaged during the installation process. The Everbilt locks also are light in weight, which gives us some concerns about how secure they are.

The Big, Beautiful Sash Lock: The SRS Solid Brass Lock

The SRS lock is an updated design from the traditional Fitch pattern and it incorporates a lever. The lever is enlarged to operate smoothly and with ease. With a narrow strike, this lock is an excellent choice for insulated sash units. A forged brass base, lever and strike with an internal stainless steel mechanism are some of the attractive features of the SRS Lock. 

SRS Hardware is an online supplier of premium hardware and we know that everything from them is of the highest quality. The owners are members of the Window Preservation Alliance and they support local window restoration companies nationwide. 

From our experience with the SRS Lock, we do notice that the finish does tarnish over time but can easily be polished and restored. We do like that this lock is from a niche window hardware supplier that is able to have matching finishes for all your window hardware types. We also want to point out that this lock is larger than your standard lock and the price is higher than the other locks mentioned in this blog. 

The Simple, Vintage Sash Lock: Traditional Sash Lock

The Traditional Sash Lock is a reproduction of common sash locks from 1910-1940. It is made of solid brass and comes in brass, antique brass, brushed nickel and oil rubbed bronze. It’s a sturdy lock that will last forever. The lock itself is smooth and will lock tight enough to pull the meeting rails together. 

We tried dozens of locks prior to coming across the traditional sash lock. We searched high and low on places like Amazon and other sites. We are pleased to have found a lock that does what it’s supposed to do without being too showy. For the price and sturdiness, we have found the traditional lock to be the best suite for us at Old Home Rescue. 

Wood Window Lock

from $14.99

Finish/Pack Size:

Select Finish/Pack Size Antique BrassLacquered BrassBrushed NickelOil Rubbed BronzeUnlacquered / Polished Brass10 Pack Antique Brass10 Pack Lacquered Brass10 Pack Brushed Nickel10 Pack Oil Rubbed Bronze10 Pack Unlacquered / Polished Brass

Antique Brass Lacquered Brass Brushed Nickel Oil Rubbed Bronze Unlacquered / Polished Brass 10 Pack Antique Brass 10 Pack Lacquered Brass 10 Pack Brushed Nickel 10 Pack Oil Rubbed Bronze 10 Pack Unlacquered / Polished Brass

Quantity:

Add To Cart

Want to learn how to install your locks? Check out the next video to learn a step by step approach to installing your window locks!

You can order the traditional sash lock mentioned early in the blog by going to our online store! Just click this link!

 Have a question? Leave us a comment below!