Project Profile: Mesta Park GAF Armor Shield Roofing

Mesta Park GAF Armor Shield

Type of Home: Two Story Craftsman

Year Built: 1910

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The Problem

The fall ice storm of 2020 was a community disaster for Oklahoma City. It was awful for homes in Oklahoma City's Mesta Park Historic District. Weighed down by ice, the large old trees fell on power lines, leaving this community without power for over one week. This particular house had several large branches fall on the roof, damage the shingles, break rafters, and damage the decking. Originally this home had wood-shake shingles, but in the last ten years, the previous contractor replaced it with OSB decking and a three-tab shingle. Unfortunately, the three-tab shingles are no match for Oklahoma weather. They were beyond repair from this event and many other wind and hail events over the last ten years. Roofing a historic home needs special attention to detail; the roof, which can also include the gutter and cornice, can be a unique challenge along with the chimney flashing.

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The Solution

Our neighbor's solution was to start with a renovation plan that included a 3D rendering of their home. With this, they were able to compare cost and shingle design.

Based on the renovation plan, the neighbor chooses a complete replacement with a GAF roofing system. We would also repair damaged decking, rafters and install new flashings. We recommended GAF Armor Shield for the field shingle and Z Ridge for the hip and roof ridge. GAF Armor Shield has a lifetime warranty when installed by a GAF certified contractor. It is also impact resistant; this protects the home from replacing the roof every time it hails and can also save the homeowner up to 20% on their insurance! We also installed GAF Snow Country Ridge Vent and painted all metal and flashing with GAF matching paint.

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The Products Used

Field Shingle: GAF Armor Shield

Ridge Shingle GAF Z Ridge

Underlayment: GAF Deck Armor

Vally Protection: GAF Storm Guard

Exhaust Ventilation: GAF Cobra Snow Country

This Mesta Park roof is now ready to protect this historic home for a lifetime!

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About Old Home Rescue

Old Home Rescue is Oklahoma's only renovation company focused on getting old houses RIGHT. We have restored and renovated homes and wood windows in Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, and Missouri. Our award-winning craftsmanship is recognized nationwide. As a Craftsman Blog Rockstar, we are listed on HGTV's Restore and Revive and host the popular YouTube channel Old Home Rescue.

Old Home Rescue is proud to offer our renovation and repair services in Oklahoma City and surrounding communities like; Norman, Edmond, Shawnee, and Guthrie. We serve all of OKC, including nationally listed historic districts like; Mesta Park, Heritage Hills, Edgemere Park, Crown Heights, Putnam Heights, Gatewood, Lincoln Terrace, Paseo, Shepard, and many more. We work closely with Oklahoma State Historic Preservation Office, Norman, and Oklahoma City Preservation Commissions to ensure all products and services are approved and receive a certificate of appropriateness.

Old Home Rescue products and services will extend the life of your old home. Our renovations use the best products available, like Accoya wood, Sun Windows and Doors, James Hardie Siding and Trim, GAF Roofing, and Sherwin-Williams Paint. We never use vinyl or plastic replacement products.

We encourage you to become our NEIGHBOR by scheduling an appointment with a RENOVATION GUIDE and getting a customized RENOVATION PLAN.

Why is Renovating an Old House So Expensive?

"I did not know owning an old house was going to cost this much."

This is a phrase we often hear when talking to old home owners. Our neighbors find that when they begin a renovation, the project expands, and costs go up. The bathroom renovation becomes a renovation, plus a new sewer line, reframing the floor joist, and lead abatement. The exterior painting becomes painting plus replacing siding, repairing windows, and installing new gutters. The sad part is, most contractors and house-flippers are notorious for covering up the problems during the project. Driven by unrealistic budgets and short-term financial gain...they defer the future repairs and maintenance to you, the homeowner.

This is where OLD HOME RESCUE comes into play. We cut our teeth on historic preservation projects. These projects not only require it to look beautiful, but they require it to be sustainable. When we present OHR's LIFETIME RENOVATION PLANS to our neighbors, they are surprised at the cost. The homeowner calls for a quote on new half-round guttering, only to find out that we need to replace all the facia with a naturally rot-resistant wood and back prime before we can even do the gutters. The cost quickly doubles or sometimes, more than doubles.

Oklahoma City, Ok

The good news is, doing it correctly returns significant ROI in the lifetime of ownership. Imagine doing a project on your house and it being the last time you do it. That is what we love doing! But how can an average old home owner pay for it?

The sad part is, some people join the defer repair club, and pay it forward. Old houses just get older; it never gets better without action. Many people choose to have a lifetime project, constantly repairing something, enjoying the process. Others choose to finance a large project with a second mortgage, a line of credit, or putting it on a credit card. These all have benefits and drawbacks. We believe we save the future by rescuing the past. When RESCUING, you take advantage of all tools available! Therefore, we are launching a new tool in LIFETIME EXTERIOR RENOVATIONS.

OLD HOME RESCUE FINANCING from Ally® Bank.

We have partnered with Ally® to make your next RENOVATION PLAN affordable. We have installment loan programs with extended terms for low monthly payments. We also have Promotional Financing Programs with 0% to 3.99% APR.

NOW is the time to RESCUE!

Historic Preservation Guide to Roofing

What are the Historic Preservation Guidelines?

The general policy for roof repair and replacement in historic preservation districts is to retain the original roof shape, details, and roofing materials when possible. Guidelines can be broken up into three general areas, maintenance, appropriate and inappropriate roofing renovations, and repairs.

This is an excerpt from our free ebook, Field Guide: Historic Home Roofing

Roof Maintenance

Historic preservation always recommends maintenance first.  These roof repairs often do not require approval or application fees. Recommended roofing care is typical:

• Annually Inspect shingles, chimney, and gutters for leaks, wear, and damage.

• Regularly Clean debris from gutter, roofs, and valleys regularly.

• Immediately Repair damage and leaks as soon as noticed.

Roofing Renovations

 Appropriate vs. Inappropriate

Appropriate

Guidelines vary between districts and cities; however, many hold the same principles. Some roof repairs may require an application and approval by municipal staff. Others require an application and a commission review. It is vital that before any homeowner proceeds with a roof renovation, they consult their local city and district. Historic roof replacement and renovations are appropriate when they:

• Repair less than 50% of any material on any side using similar material and design.

• Replace a non-historic roof with asphalt architectural shingles.

• Replace all-metal flashing with painted metal flashing that matches the color of the roof

• Replace non-historic gutter with powdered finish gutters that match the color of facia

• Install new items or additions on the rear of the roof were not visible.

Inappropriate

Historic preservation commission may deem many repairs, renovations, and replacements as not appropriate. The most commonly requested inappropriate roof renovations are:

• Replacing historical or original roofing material.

• Adding on to or altering the front elevation or street visible part of the home.

• Changing or removing the original shape, pitch, and overhang of the roof.

• Installing galvanized gutters or flashing.

• Installing metal panel roofs where they did not exist historically.

Before you start any renovation on your historic home and roof, check with your local historic preservation commission or city.

Field Guide: Interior Window Painting

Below is the process that we have specifically developed with our local Sherwin Williams for our painters to restore the interior of old wood windows WITHOUT removing the sash from the window. Yes, it would be best practice to remove them; however, to do so is sometimes cost prohibitive. This is a method that will perform the needed maintenance on the windows, be eligible for Sherwin William’s lifetime warranty, and allows our Neighbors (we don’t have customers) to do much needed work on more windows.

If you do want to remove it to bare wood and deglaze, we highly recommend using a Speedheater over a heat gun and check out this video.

(For our process in Spanish click here)

The following process is for our on-site, interior window restorations and part of our Lifetime Exterior Renovation. This is the difference between putting color on a window and prepping & painting a window that we can all stand behind the quality of work. 

1. Any products outside of those specified and provided must be approved by Old Home Rescue prior to use. 

2. Follow Manufacturer’s Specifications on all products

3. Clean the Surface

   1. Remove all surface contamination by using the following; 

      1. Walls should be wet down with garden hose & nozzle

      2. Mix 1 gallon water, 1 cup bleach, & 1 cup TSP-PF (Adjust for spray bottle if desired)

      3. Working in sections, clean from bottom to top to avoid streaks

      4. Rinse window and trim with water in spray bottle before solution dries

      5. Allow to dry until wood as 15% or less moisture level

4. Prep the Surface

   1. Cover the work area with plastic or drop clothes to collect paint debris

   2. Scrape flat surfaces with a pull scraper to a sound layer removing existing loose, peeled or checked paint.

   3. Scrape profiles with a surfaces with a profile scraper to a sound layer removing existing loose, peeled or checked paint.

   4. Feather sand by hand any rough edges from peeling paint with a sanding pad to improve the final appearance and adhesion.

   5. Removal of old paint runs

   6. Set nail heads on wood where exposed beyond surface level

   7. Remove all unused fasteners & hardware

   8. Repair dry rot around around sash hardware with Abatron LiquidWood BEFORE priming.

   9. Repair rot with up to a golf ball sized quantity of Abatron WoodEpox BEFORE priming. Damage or rot exceeding epoxy threshold should be communicated to Old Home Rescue

   10. Repair minor cracks painter’s putty or wood filler AFTER spot priming.

   11. Caulking should be completed AFTER priming

5. Glazing Repair

   1. If broken glass is present, continue with steps 5.2-5.4.

   2. Replace any broken glass with 1/8” double strength flat glass or reproduction wavy glass, as specified. Pin glass in place using glazing points with at least 2 glazing points on each side.

   3. Glass beds should be primed with oil based primer BEFORE glazing. 

   4. Putty glaze glass in with AquaGlaze

6. Prime the Surface

   1. Brush the surface with 1-2 coats of Sherwin Williams Primer Rx Peel Bonding Primer

   2. Peel bonding primer helps even out less-than-perfect surfaces before painting, giving a smoother completed finish

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 4 hrs after application

7. Caulk

   1. Gaps and fixed joints can be filled with Sherwin Williams PowerHouse or MaxFlex caulking after priming the surface

   2. Allow proper drying time before application of the finish

8. Paint the Surface

   1. Brush the surfaces with 2 coats of Sherwin Williams Emerald, Waterbased Alkyd Urethane (different temperature requirements) or equivalent paints in a satin or semi gloss finish finish for ultimate protection. 

   2. OHR preferred sash brush: 2” angled ultra stiff sash brush

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 48 hrs after application

9. Clean the surface

   1. Remove any paint from glass with a lubricated razor blade

   2. Clean glass with glass cleaner and paper towels

   3. Glass should be clean when viewed from 6 feet away

   4. Property should be clean of all construction debris and paint chips

   5. Trash can be disposed of at Old Home Rescue or construction dumpster on-site.

10.  Notes on Painting Wood Windows

    1. The above specifications are for painting wood windows for stabilization, protection and maintenance on a cyclical basis. Window painting’s cosmetic results should be viewed from 5 feet away as there may still be inconsistencies in the paint surface. 

    2. If the Neighbor is interested in additional surface preparation or replacements parts to their window, direct them to the Old Home Rescue Project Manager, who will discuss off-site restoration or reproduction windows.

Field Guide: Exterior Window Painting

Below is the process that we have specifically developed with our local Sherwin Williams for our painters to restore old wood windows WITHOUT removing the sash from the window. Yes, it would be best practice to remove them; however, to do so is sometimes cost prohibitive. This is a method that will perform the needed maintenance on the windows, be eligible for Sherwin William’s lifetime warranty, and allows our Neighbors (we don’t have customers) to do much needed work on more windows.

If you do want to remove it to bare wood and deglaze, we highly recommend using a Speedheater over a heat gun and check out this video.

(For our process in Spanish click here)

The following process is for our on-site, exterior window restorations and part of our Lifetime Exterior Renovation. This is the difference between putting color on a window and prepping & painting a window that we can all stand behind the quality of work. 

1. Any products outside of those specified and provided must be approved by Old Home Rescue prior to use. 

2. Follow Manufacturer’s Specifications on all products

3. Clean the Surface

   1. Pressure washers are NOT used to prep for paint application

   2. Remove all surface contamination by using the following; 

      1. Walls should be wet down with garden hose & nozzle

      2. Mix 1 gallon water, 1 cup bleach, & 1 cup TSP-PF

      3. Working in sections, clean from bottom to top to avoid streaks

      4. Rinse walls with garden hose and nozzle before solution dries

      5. Allow to dry until wood as 15% or less moisture level

4. Prep the Surface

   1. Cover the work area with plastic or drop clothes to collect paint debris

   2. Existing loose, peeled or checked paint must be scraped with a pull scraper to a sound layer. 

   3. Feather sand any rough edges from peeling paint with a sanding pad to improve the final appearance and adhesion.

   4. Removal of old paint runs

   5. Set nail heads on wood where exposed beyond surface level

   6. Remove all unused fasteners & hardware

   7. Repair rot with up to a golf ball sized quantity of Abatron WoodEpox BEFORE priming or a primed replacement board. Damage or rot exceeding epoxy threshold should be communicated to Old Home Rescue

   8. Repair minor cracks with Aqua Glaze or exterior painter’s putty AFTER spot priming.

   9. Caulking should be completed AFTER priming

5. Glazing Repair

   1. Replace any broken glass with 1/8” double strength flat glass or reproduction wavy glass, as specified. Pin glass in place using glazing points with at least 2 glazing points on each side.

   2. Remove failed glazing that cannot be maintain from the glass bed. Protect historic glass, ensuring not to break any additional glass.

   3. Glass beds should be primed with oil based primer BEFORE glazing. 

   4. Putty glaze glass with Aqua Glaze

   5. Fill cracks in glazing with Aqua Glaze

6. Spot Prime

   1. Spot prime bare wood with oil based primer 

   2. Sand as needed between coats.

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 4 hrs after application

7. Prime the Surface

   1. Brush the entire surface with 1-2 coats of Sherwin Williams Primer Rx Peel Bonding Primer

   2. Peel bonding primer helps even out less-than-perfect surfaces before painting, giving a smoother completed finish

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 4 hrs after application

8. Caulk

   1. Gaps and fixed joints can be filled with Sherwin Williams PowerHouse or MaxFlex caulking after priming the surface

   2. Allow proper drying time before application of the finish

9. Paint the Surface

   1. Brush the surfaces with 2 coats of Sherwin Williams Emerald, Waterbased Alkyd Urethane (different temperature requirements) or equivalent paints in a satin or semi gloss finish finish for ultimate protection. 

   2. OHR preferred sash brush: 2” angled ultra stiff sash brush

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 48 hrs after application

10. Clean the surface

    1. Remove any paint from glass with a lubricated razor blade

    2. Clean glass with glass cleaner and paper towels

    3. Glass should be clean when viewed from 6 feet away

    4. Property should be clean of all construction debris and paint chips

    5. Trash can be disposed of at Old Home Rescue or construction dumpster on-site.

11.  Notes on Painting Wood Windows

    1. The above specifications are for painting wood windows for stabilization, protection and maintenance on a cyclical basis. Window painting’s cosmetic results should be viewed from 5 feet away as there may still be inconsistencies in the paint surface. 

    2. If the Neighbor is interested in additional surface preparation or replacements parts to their window, direct them to the Old Home Rescue Project Manager, who will discuss off-site restoration or reproduction windows.

Click the image below for an up-to-date checklist!

Field Guide: Remove Vinyl or Aluminum Siding

The truth about replacement siding… well, is that it’s bad.

Underneath the shell that’s been placed on a house, is rushed work that didn’t take the long term interest of the home into account. Character defining details have been covered or literally just knocked off with a hammer so that cladding could be installed. Not only this, the way in which replacement siding is installed on an old home actually pushes water behind the siding near the roofline trim, diverts water into areas that can produce rot around windows and doors, and covers up problems on a house.

At Old Home Rescue, we don’t cover up problems. We UNCOVER them because, to us, they’re not problems. They’re just part of the work on the path to Rescuing your home.

Like many of our blog posts, here’s an insight into how our teams remove vinyl or aluminum cladding and our expectations for them.

After demo, it’s time for siding and trim repairs and painting the siding. Check out the videos below for what your home could look like underneath!

Procedure:

1. Place drop cloths or plastic underneath the working area. As the siding comes off so will the paint chips that have collected over the decades.

2. Remove the cladding using the gentlest means necessary. This can mean taking the time to work from top to bottom and remove screws or nails. Most often, we are restoring the original siding so it is imperative not to cause additional damage.

3. Siding should be hauled off to recycling, when available, or disposed of in the on-site dumpster or at Old Home Rescue’s office.

4. Pull all nails, screws and fasteners and dispose them.

5. Clean the entire project and leave it better than was found by picking up all paint chips, disposing of all debris, and using a magnet pick up all fasteners from the ground.

6. Communicate rot and areas of concern to Old Home Rescue’s Project Manager

7. Cover rot, areas of concern, or exposed sheathing with house wrap and button tab nails

Expectations

• Removal of siding in a way that does not cause further damage

• Removal of nails or screws left in original siding or sheathing

• Clean-up of all debris

• House wrap of any concern areas or exposed areas

• Run work area with magnet to pick up nails

Field Guide: Aluminum Storm Window Installation

Replace your drafty windows! That’s what homeowners have been told for decades now, but it doesn’t have to be the case. An aluminum storm window is likely the easiest solution to cut down on air infiltration around the windows of an old home that will also protect your windows and prolong their maintenance cycle.

Like many of our blog posts, here’s an insight into how our team installs Provia aluminum storm windows and our expectations.

Tools & Material

• Measuring tape

• Cordless Drill

• Magnetic drive guide

• #2 Phillips

• Twist bit

• Metal Snips

• Ladder/step stool

• Suction cups

• Utility knife

• Shims

Procedure:

1. Inspect for damage the window for any damage prior to installation.

2. Find the window number on the label.

   • We either label our windows based on how our Hover 3D image labels windows

   • OR

   • The front elevation, left most window on the first floor is labeled 101, then working around the house front, right, back, left. Second floor & landing windows are labeled starting with 200.

3. Carefully unpackage the window and place it by the window opening. . 

4. Always read through the manufacturer’s instructions for exact instructions on installing the specific type of window. 

5. Picture window style storms should have the glass removed at this time.

6. Test fit storm window to ensure an appropriate fit. Using a suction cup can make this process easier.

   • There are two types of installation; overlap application and blindstop application.

   • Our typical installation method is the blind stop application.

7. Trim the frame, if needed, by using a utility knife and metal snips

8. DO NOT CAULK THE OPENING

   • This a common recommendation from storm window manufacturers; however, the storm window will not be able to be removed for maintenance of the primary window.

9. Place the storm window in the opening with a symmetric reveal with the bottom expander pushed all the way up, if present. Shims can be helpful to hold the storm window up into place.

10. Install the top, center screw after pre-drilling a pilot hole but do not tighten.

11. Remove the shims and push the bottom expander down so that it’s snug against the sub sill.

12. Pre-drill and install screws that remain around the perimeter and tighten top screw. Screws should be installed straight and not at an angle, which will cause the sides to rotate.

13. Remove the installation clips, if present, on triple track style storm windows.

14. Re-install the glass, if installing a picture window

15. Check for proper operation of the sash and screen and adjust, if needed.

16. Touch up paint with manufacture provided paint.

17. Clean glass to be free of debris, sweat, etc.

Expectations

• Storm window is installed according to manufacturer’s specifications, aside from caulking

• Symmetrical reveal on window

• Installation clips are removed after installation

• Operational window work with ease

• Screws are not installed at an angle

• Glass is clean and free of debris, sweat, etc.

• Touch up paint is completed