Field Guide: Painting Old Wood Windows Overview

Once upon a time, before Old Home Rescue, we were Wood Window Rescue. We’ve spent the years, scraping every last piece of paint, reglazing each panes, and re-roping windows. I’ll be honest, even as a professional, sometimes it’s hard. It’s a common topic at our window restoration workshops as well as Facebook groups like Our Old House. What we’ve learned, and now stress, to our Neighbors is that there is a time and a place for window restoration. Sometimes it’s best for your time, your marriage (seriously), and your windows to just perform paint maintenance.

Below is the process that we have specifically developed for our painters to paint old wood windows WITHOUT removing the paint to bare wood or the window from the opening. Yes, it will have continue to have the character of an old home, but when viewed from the sidewalk, the paint will look amazing and be eligible for Sherwin Williams’s lifetime warranty. If you do want to remove it to bare wood and deglaze, we highly recommend using a Speedheater over a heat gun and check out this video.

(For our process in Spanish click here)

The following process is intended to be the final step in a Lifetime Exterior Renovation. This is the difference between putting color on a house and prepping & painting a home where we can all stand behind the quality of work. 

1. Any products outside of those specified and provided must be approved by Old Home Rescue prior to use. 

2. Follow Manufacturer’s Specifications on all products

3. Clean the Surface

   1. Pressure washers are NOT used to prep for paint application

   2. Remove all surface contamination by using the following; 

      1. Walls should be wet down with garden hose & nozzle

      2. Mix 1 gallon water, 1 cup bleach, & 1 cup TSP-PF

      3. Working in sections, clean from bottom to top to avoid streaks

      4. Rinse walls with garden hose and nozzle before solution dries

      5. Allow to dry until wood as 15% or less moisture level

4. Prep the Surface

   1. Cover the work area with plastic or drop clothes to collect paint debris

   2. Existing loose, peeled or checked paint must be scraped with a pull scraper to a sound layer, i.e., must pass the fingernail test for failed paint. 

   3. Feather the rough edges from peeling paint to improve the final appearance and adhesion.

   4. Removal of old paint runs

   5. Set nail heads on wood where exposed beyond surface level

   6. Remove all unused fasteners & hardware

   7. Repair rot with up to a golf ball sized quantity of Abatron WoodEpox BEFORE priming or a primed replacement board. Damage or rot exceeding epoxy threshold should be communicated to Old Home Rescue

   8. Repair minor cracks with Aqua Glaze or exterior painter’s putty AFTER spot priming.

   9. Caulking should be completed AFTER priming

5. Glazing Repair

   1. Protect historic glass by replacing missing glazing with Aqua Glaze and only removing glazing that fails the fingernail test. Glass beds should be primed with oil based primer BEFORE glazing. 

   2. Fill cracks in glazing with Aqua Glaze

6. Spot Prime

   1. Spot prime bare wood with oil based primer 

   2. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 4 hrs after application

7. Prime the Surface

   1. Brush the surface Sherwin Williams Primer Rx Peel Bonding Primer

   2. Peel bonding primer helps even out less-than-perfect surfaces before painting, giving a smoother completed finish

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 4 hrs after application

8. Caulk

   1. Gaps and fixed joints can be filled with Sherwin Williams PowerHouse or MaxFlex caulking after priming the surface

   2. Allow proper drying time before application of the finish

9. Paint the Surface

   1. Brush the surfaces with 2 coats of Sherwin Williams Emerald, Waterbased Alkyd Urethane (different temperature requirements) or equivalent paints in a satin or semi gloss finish finish for ultimate protection. 

   2. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 48 hrs after application

10. Clean the surface

    1. Remove any paint from glass with a lubricated razor blade

    2. Clean glass with glass cleaner and paper towels

    3. Glass should be clean when viewed from 6 feet away

    4. Property should be clean of all construction debris

    5. Trash can be disposed of at Old Home Rescue or construction dumpster on-site.

11.  Notes on Painting Wood Windows

    1. The above specifications are for painting wood windows for stabilization, protection and maintenance on a cyclical basis. Window painting’s cosmetic results should be viewed from the sidewalk as there will be inconsistencies in the paint surface. 

    2. If the Neighbor is interested in additional surface preparation or results, direct them to the Old Home Rescue Project Manager, who will discuss on-site restoration, off-site restoration, or reproduction windows.

Field Guide: Painting Peeling Wood Siding & Trim

Let’s face it, painting old wood is hard, and, honestly, it’s taken us years to develop a process that could bridge the gap between what painter suppliers require for warranties, what painters have never been taught, and paint prep that can be completed without stripping all of the woodwork of your home to bare wood.

Below is the process that we have specifically developed with Sherwin Williams for our painters to paint old homes WITHOUT removing the paint to bare wood. Yes, it will have continue to have the character of an old home, but when viewed from the sidewalk, the paint will look amazing and be eligible for Sherwin Williams’s lifetime warranty. If you want to remove it to bare wood, we highly recommend using a Speedheater over a heat gun.

(For our process in Spanish click here)

The following process is intended to be the final step in a Lifetime Exterior Renovation. This is the difference between putting color on a house and prepping & painting a home where we can all stand behind the quality of work. 

1. Any products outside of those specified and provided must be approved by Old Home Rescue prior to use.

2. Follow Manufacturer’s Specifications on all products not outlined here

3. Clean the Surface

   1. Pressure washers are NOT used to prep for paint application

   2. Remove all surface contamination by using the following; 

      1. Walls should be wet down with garden hose & nozzle

      2. Mix 1 gallon water, 1 cup bleach, & 1 cup trisodium phosphate (TSP)

      3. Working in sections, clean from bottom to top to avoid streaks

      4. Rinse walls with garden hose and nozzle before solution dries

      5. Allow to dry until wood as 15% or less moisture level

4. Prep the Surface

   1. Cover the work area with plastic or drop clothes to collect paint debris

   2. Existing loose, peeled or checked paint must be scraped with a pull scraper and sanded to a sound surface

   3. Feather the rough edges from peeling paint to improve the final appearance. 

   4. Set nail heads on wood where exposed beyond surface level

   5. Repair minor cracks with exterior painter’s putty

   6. Repair rot with up to a golf ball sized quantity of Abatron WoodEpox BEFORE priming or a replacement board primed on all sides and end cuts. Damage or rot exceeding epoxy threshold should be communicated to Old Home Rescue 

   7. Caulking should be completed AFTER priming

5. Spot Prime

   1. Spot prime bare wood with oil based primer 

   2. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 4 hrs after application

6. Prime the Surface

   1. Brush or spray + back brush/roll the surface Sherwin Williams PrimerRx Peel Bonding Primer

   2. Peel bonding primer helps even out less-than-perfect surfaces before painting, giving a smoother completed finish

   3. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 4 hrs after application

7. Caulk

   1. Gaps and fixed joints can be filled with Sherwin Williams PowerHouse or MaxFlex caulking after priming the surface

   2. Allow proper drying time before application of the finish

   3. NEVER caulk the underside of siding 

8. Paint the Surface

   1. Spray, Brush, and/or Roll the surfaces with 2 coats of Sherwin Williams Emerald or equivalent paints in a satin or semi gloss finish finish for ultimate protection.

   2. Air, surface and material temperature must be above 35 degrees for 48 hrs after application

9. Clean the property

   1. Property should be clean of all construction debris

   2. Trash can be disposed of at Old Home Rescue or construction dumpster on-site.

10.  Notes on Painting Wood Windows

    1. The above are Sherwin Williams Approved specifications for painting old wood for stabilization, protection and maintenance on a cyclical basis, which qualifies the painting project for a lifetime warranty. 

    2. Window painting’s cosmetic results should be viewed from the sidewalk as there will be inconsistencies in the paint surface. 

    3. If the Neighbor is interested in additional surface preparation or results, direct them to the Old Home Rescue Project Manager, who will discuss additional options for repair or replacement.

Rules for Home Renovation

Your old home has character that makes it beautiful and unique. Before you swing the sledge hammer or start to remodel, there are 7 Rules of Restoration that you’ll need to know. These rules will help you get or keep your old house right! Each one of these rules can be applied to any remodel of any age!

 1st Rule: Repair the Home's Original Features

Due to your home being built in a specific time period, there are elements that make your house unique and beautiful. Leave the original elements alone and only address them if they need to be rehabilitated. When people remove historic mill-work elements that were popular in that time period and replace them something you can get at any home center; the house loses a part of its own history. 

2nd Rule: Use the Property for its Original Purpose

First of all, if the house was originally designed to be a house…it should be kept as a house. People will always need houses and will always be looking for places to call their home. Second, leave the rooms where they were originally laid out to be. Gutting out an older home can cost hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars that could be applied elsewhere. Last, look for a new home instead of changing the one you have now to suit your needs. If you need a larger home for a growing family or need a different layout, looking into a new home could save you a lot of time and money. 

3rd Rule: Retain and Preserve the Home Additions 

The big reasons why this rule should be followed is for the historical significance and the environmental impacts that come with renovations. Demo and deconstruction are extremely expensive. And all the waste from a demo ends up in landfills. 

4th Rule: Replace with Authenticity

We understand that sometimes certain components of a vintage home become unsalvageable from wear and tear over the years. We also understand that some of those original characteristics may be missing from work done by previous home owners. When replacement becomes the only option, we want to replace with something that will authentically match the time period and the original features. 

5th Rule: Add-On to Home with Integrity

Add-ons should add value to your house if you’re going to have one done. In order to make sure you’re getting the addition correct for your home, you should be able to identify the original structure and the add-on structure when the work is completed. This can be done on the outside by changing the cladding or by offsetting the house just a little bit so you can tell where the old is at and where the new begins. 

Another thing you want to do is make sure addition does not end up larger than the original size of the home. It just doesn’t look right and completely shadows the home itself. Not to mention, it will take away value from the house too! The next thing you want to know about add-ons is how to blend it properly with the pre-existing structure. You can do this by bringing some character defining details of the time the house was built into the addition, but take caution. You don’t want to overdo it and make addition come off as fake. We recommend checking out the Read before Renovating [hype link to blog post] blog about four books that are foundational to comprehending old home renovations. 

6th Rule: Never Add Fake Features to the Home

This may end up being a bit offensive because so many people love shiplap. However, you don’t want to add something fake and phony to your house. Knockoff features and elements take away from curb appeal and will make it more difficult to sell in the future. 

7th Rule: Never use Aggressive Remodel Methods

Sledgehammers and power washers may make the work go by a bit quicker, but at what cost? These tools do more damage to the environment, the home and your health more than most people consider.  

Busting out the power washer to blow the paint off your house causes paint chips to fly everywhere! If that old home was built before 1978, that paint is most likely lead based paint. This is a hazard to your health! The power washer also injects way more water than that wood is designed to intake and more often than not, people don’t give the wood enough time to dry afterwards. Another thing to think about is where does the runoff water go from this washing? Into the city sewers which is not only illegal, but also extremely dangerous environmentally! 

Lastly, let’s talk about the sledgehammer. This tool is destructive and can cause a lot more damage than one may be aware. When you rock the house with a heavy sledgehammer, you are not just tearing apart the part you’re looking to destroy...you’re actually damaging adjacent elements of the home. 

We want to encourage you to leave your home as it is. Rethink why you own the home and if you want a different design, look into purchasing a new one. Don’t destroy the history and craftsmanship of old homes to make a new one for you. Find ways to renovate and restore your house that do as minimal damage to it as possible. 

Have a question? Leave a comment below! 

Read before Renovating!

At Old Home Rescue, we work on hundreds of projects every single year. While most of these are repair projects, some of the work we do require major restorations. This often leads us wanting to return the home back to its original state but items like windows, siding, porches and trim have been removed and/or replaced. However, how do we know how to repair these items for a historic home? How do we decide how something should be restored? How do we find out what route we should take?

In this blog, we will discuss four books we find to be foundational to fully comprehending old home renovations. They are all focused on helping you not only understand the type of home you have, but also the character defining features and why these features should be preserved. These books should be a mandatory read before a sledge hammer is ever swung!

Virginia McAlester’s “A Field Guide to America Homes”

The first book we want to cover in our must-have book series for restoring any historic home is “A Field Guide to America Homes.”  This book will cover one of the most crucial parts when you’re looking into doing a renovation, as it covers how to identify and understand America’s domestic architecture. You wouldn’t want to renovate, restore or add to the home unless you know the type of house you have. 

Using this book as a guide can help you find inspiration on how to add on appropriately and how to restore elements that may be missing from your old home. Each style of architecture is illustrated with key design features that include roof, windows and cladding with regional differences. This is super beneficial as it will help you make sure that your home doesn’t turn into a hodgepodge house that doesn’t meet the time period. 

This book is available on Amazon and can be picked up for under $25! This is a must to keep the integrity of your home! 

Marinee Custato’s “Get Your House Right”

The second book we’d like to recommend suggests architectural elements to use and the ones to avoid. Covering all the features that make up a great design in a home, this book should be used, not only for restoring a home, but also for building your own house too! 

The key features that make up a well designed home are all fully written out with beautifully detailed illustrations that show what you’ll want to “use” and what you’ll want to “avoid.” This will give you great insight as to what is appropriate for your windows, doors, porches, entryways, roofs and more!

This book can be purchased off Amazon for under $20! A must have for knowing the dos and don’ts of restoring or building a home!

Scott Hanson’s “Restoring Your Historic Home” 

The next book we’d like to suggest is fairly new! Published in 2019, this book will cover hundreds of DIY projects on how to manage the restoration of your house. With step-by-step photos, illustrations, charts and decision-making guides; it can help you from the very beginning on identifying the type of house you have. It can also help you understand how to get the right documents and how to work with local bureaucrats to get the permits you’ll need to restore your house. 

Using this book as a guide, homeowners can overcome one of the biggest challenges they have with contractors and supplies. By having a great understanding and knowing the language of what your project demands are, you’ll be able to communicate clearly with contractors and know what exact supplies you are after and your expectations!

Found on Amazon for under $33, this book is super beneficial for any homeowner!

Certified Local Government (CLG) Historic Preservation Handbook

The last book we want to urge you to add to the collection is completely free and can help you save thousands of dollars! These handbooks will be valuable to you if you are planning projects which may alter the exterior of the property and therefore impact the overall character and integrity of a historic district. These handbooks are typically created by cities and funded in part by a grant from the certified local government program. 

The handbooks typically start with going through the history of your city's development and then cover some defining characteristics of your neighborhood. A map of the historic districts may be included, which can be really handy as a homeowner. Knowing if you’ll be purchasing a house in a historic district or if you’ll need to go through any type of certificate of appropriateness for renovations is crucial information for anyone. You want to make sure you are following the rules and guidelines that are intact.

Unapproved alterations can prevent building permits, reduce value, lead to a fine or prevent the receiving of a mortgage. These books will let you know what’s expected in your cities historically preserved neighborhoods to prevent any unapproved alterations. It also will answer your “can I do that” questions!

These handbooks are often available on your city's historic preservation link on their website. You can also go to the office of your Certified Local Government or you can request for them to mail you one.

Have a question or want to suggest a book to the community? Leave a comment below!

The Best Window Putty

If you are replacing or repainting vintage windows, you will find yourself needing to replace the old glazing. Sometimes the glazing will just need to be touched up and other times, you’ll be looking at replacing all of the glazing. Now, the question that comes up at this point is which glazing should you use?

Throughout this blog and video, we will discuss the top brands used for window glazing. We also will let you know which glazing we use in our wood window rescue shop. 

The Box Store Option: DAP 33

DAP 33 glazing is a ready-to-use glazing compound that may be used for face glazing wood or metal sashes. Its knife-grade consistency allows for smooth, easy applications. It also sticks tightly to the glass and sash while resisting sagging, shrinking, and cracking. This product is designed for both interior and exterior use. Just make sure to wait the recommended 7-14 days before painting this glazing...that will change based on temperatures and humidity. 

With the primary ingredients consisting of limestone, soya oil, talc, and quartz:  there are no caustic chemicals in this glazing compound. However, minor safety precautions still need to be taken. Be smart and always read the label! 

DAP 33 Glazing is also really easy to find! Not only can you find it in big box stores and paint supplies; DAP is available online and in most local home stores. It is definitely accessible for anyone needing glazing! Averaging about $30 per gallon, the DAP 33 glazing compound does its job!

Red Devil Window Glazing Compound

Red Devil is listed as a premium white, oil based glazing compound that is specially formulated for installing glass in wood or metal sashes. The glazing forms an airtight and watertight seal and is designed to take any paint after 24 hours. Its primary ingredients are calcium carbonate, soybean oil, talc and titanium dioxide. 

Though we have not personally seen Red Devil glazing products in any of our stores, we do know that it is carried at dozens of retailers across the US and can be purchased on Amazon..typically for around $30 per gallon.

Sarco Type-M

Sarco Multi-Glaze Type-M glazing compound is formulated for wood sash windows and doors. Type-M is for inside shop glazing. This modern glazing compound remains elastic which allows for normal expansion and contraction. It also adheres to all glazing surfaces thus forming a permanent, watertight bond between the glass and sash. After the putty has skinned, it should be ready to be painted with an oil or latex paint. This drying period will depend on temperatures and humidity.

The Sarco Type-M primary ingredients from the SDS sheet are calcium carbonate, ground limestone, linseed oil and soybean oil. Type-M is also a bit harder to find then the previous two options, but still pretty easy to track down. You can purchase this glazing compound on Amazon and several other window restoration supplies online. Usually found online for about $40 per gallon.

UGL Glazol

Superior to putty, UGL Glazol glazing compound is specially designed to create a watertight bond between glass and wood, glass and metal sash, and glass and doors. It forms a “cushion” against shock and vibrations when used in replacing broken glass. Glazol is ideal for knife-grade caulking compound and can be used to set plumbing fixtures along with fill cracks and nail holes in wood siding. This glaze offers a year-round workability by remaining pliable while resisting chipping and cracking. 

When it comes to painting this glaze, you’ll want to be mindful of what type of paint you are applying, as it has unique drying time recommendations.  While using latex paint, you’ll be waiting several days before applying any coats. If using oil based, it recommends 24 hours.  

You’ll also want to be careful with this putty as its primary ingredients contain Stoddard Solvent. That is a flammable liquid that smells and tastes like kerosene. It also contains Limestone and Soybean Oil. 

UGL Glazol can be found at about $35 a gallon on Amazon.

Our Personal Favorite

After testing all of these putty options, our favorite has to be the Sarco – Type M Glazing Putty! We love this glazing compound and their business. This glazing is professional grade and the owners give it a personal touch!  

Have a question? Leave a comment below!

Picking the Best Sash Lock

Your vintage windows need to be able to lock...but what lock should you choose? Where can you buy locks? 

In this blog and the videos, we will review 3 different types of locks that have been used by Old Home Rescue.

The Box Store, Budget Lock:  The Everbilt, Steel Window Lock

The Everbilt is the first lock that Ty mentions in the video. This lock can be found in almost all big, hardware box stores such as Home Depot or Lowe’s. They can also be found at your local hardware store, which is great if you’re in a pinch for an affordable lock! However, the hardware store lock is fairly low in quality.

From our experience, we have learned that the steel finish fails quickly from just the slightest wear. When our team used them, they became damaged during the installation process. The Everbilt locks also are light in weight, which gives us some concerns about how secure they are.

The Big, Beautiful Sash Lock: The SRS Solid Brass Lock

The SRS lock is an updated design from the traditional Fitch pattern and it incorporates a lever. The lever is enlarged to operate smoothly and with ease. With a narrow strike, this lock is an excellent choice for insulated sash units. A forged brass base, lever and strike with an internal stainless steel mechanism are some of the attractive features of the SRS Lock. 

SRS Hardware is an online supplier of premium hardware and we know that everything from them is of the highest quality. The owners are members of the Window Preservation Alliance and they support local window restoration companies nationwide. 

From our experience with the SRS Lock, we do notice that the finish does tarnish over time but can easily be polished and restored. We do like that this lock is from a niche window hardware supplier that is able to have matching finishes for all your window hardware types. We also want to point out that this lock is larger than your standard lock and the price is higher than the other locks mentioned in this blog. 

The Simple, Vintage Sash Lock: Traditional Sash Lock

The Traditional Sash Lock is a reproduction of common sash locks from 1910-1940. It is made of solid brass and comes in brass, antique brass, brushed nickel and oil rubbed bronze. It’s a sturdy lock that will last forever. The lock itself is smooth and will lock tight enough to pull the meeting rails together. 

We tried dozens of locks prior to coming across the traditional sash lock. We searched high and low on places like Amazon and other sites. We are pleased to have found a lock that does what it’s supposed to do without being too showy. For the price and sturdiness, we have found the traditional lock to be the best suite for us at Old Home Rescue. 

Wood Window Lock

from $14.99

Finish/Pack Size:

Select Finish/Pack Size Antique BrassLacquered BrassBrushed NickelOil Rubbed BronzeUnlacquered / Polished Brass10 Pack Antique Brass10 Pack Lacquered Brass10 Pack Brushed Nickel10 Pack Oil Rubbed Bronze10 Pack Unlacquered / Polished Brass

Antique Brass Lacquered Brass Brushed Nickel Oil Rubbed Bronze Unlacquered / Polished Brass 10 Pack Antique Brass 10 Pack Lacquered Brass 10 Pack Brushed Nickel 10 Pack Oil Rubbed Bronze 10 Pack Unlacquered / Polished Brass

Quantity:

Add To Cart

Want to learn how to install your locks? Check out the next video to learn a step by step approach to installing your window locks!

You can order the traditional sash lock mentioned early in the blog by going to our online store! Just click this link!

 Have a question? Leave us a comment below!

Removing Vinyl Flooring

We may not know why some people insist on putting plastic into an older home, but we do know how to remove it!

Removing vinyl flooring can be a breeze and can be done over a weekend, if you have the right tools to get the job done. Here's how we can help!

You'll need to know some things prior to starting any project like this. Like, what dangers are involved with removing linoleum or plastic from a surface? When it comes to linoleum flooring, there is a chance that asbestos is involved but this is easy to check. The sign you'll be looking for is located underneath the linoleum itself and the color you see. If you see black backing or adhesive, take caution during the entire process as this is an indicator of asbestos. If you see white instead, you should be in the clear. If you feel uncertain at all, we'd like to encourage you to wear a mask during the RIY process. 

With this in mind, you'll also want to make sure you're using the correct tools. Here is a list of the tools we recommend for this:

• End Cutting Pliers = For removing nails and staples.

• 5-IN-1 Tool = For pulling up backing. If you'll be focusing on a much larger surface area, a floor scraper would work as well. 

• Clapboard Paint Scraper = This versatile tool will come in handy for your more challenging areas. 

• Profile Paint Scraper = Great tool for profiling a surface.

• Speedheater Cobra = One of the easiest ways to remove paint is by heating it up. This will help to loosen up paint and/or adhesive. 

• Gloves = For safety.

• Mask = For safety.

Available

Speedheater™ Cobra

$499.00

Add To Cart

Once you are ready to begin, you want to start by heating up a surface area with the Speedheater Cobra. We want to remind you to be cautious while heating up a surface and not allow it to get too hot, as it can catch fire. Once you feel the surface is heated up enough, you'll use the 5-IN-1 tool to pry the top up on the vinyl flooring. If possible, try to lift the paper backing up with the top as well.

Now, what should you do if the paper backing doesn't come up with the top of the vinyl? You'll want to scrape it off by heating up the surface and scrape with the grain as much as possible. Scraping against the grain will result in damaging the wood itself.

If you have any remaining stubborn pieces of backing left at this point, it's time to bust out the clapboard scraper. Since these pieces are stuck on very well, be careful while scraping these off as you may pull up some wood with the backing.

If you have any questions, please leave a comment below!

Field Guide: Wood Storm Windows

What is a storm window?

Storm windows are a practical and effective way to protect the integrity of your home. Not only can it be a Secret Way To Improve Your Homes Value, but it can also protect your primary window from the elements of the world. Not to mention, they also improve energy efficiency, privacy and comfort of the home. Wood Window Rescue offers its own version of a storm window called the EverStorm.

Now, for those who love an RIY approach to projects, you may want to tackle the installation yourself. There are some things you should know before starting though. Below, you will find a video and instructions from Morgan on how to install a standard EverStorm.

You'll need Wood Storm and Screen Sash Hangers to install the storm window during this process. The sash hangers will connect the casing and storm together. You may also need Wood Storm and Screen Turn Buttons if the window being covered by the storm will not be operable. 

This is a three part post that covers the dry fit, completion and installation of a wood storm window;

• Dry Fit Steps

• Completion Steps

• Installation Steps

• Storm Window Adjuster Steps

Depending on your preference, you can complete the work in a couple different ways;

1. Build storm frame, dry fit and adjust the storm, prime/paint/glass/glaze, then installation (preferred)

2. Build storm frame, prime/paint, glass, glaze, then install while fitting, adjusting and touching up at the end.

Have a question? Leave us a comment below!